Our must do list for visiting New Orleans
Ah, New Orleans. The Big Easy; Crescent City; NOLA. This lively, yet defiantly languid city on the Mississippi has many sobriquets. Above all however, it is a mesmerising fever dream of a city that is very different to any other in the USA. The intoxicating combination of evocative associations include Jazz, Louis Armstrong, Cajun & Creole cuisine, paddle steamers, cocktails, cemeteries, Mardi Gras, Tennessee Williams and the famed architecture and atmosphere of the French Quarter. That’s before you even think about visiting the surrounding bayou or the nearby Gulf of Mexico.
As the second stop on our US journey, we took a three-hour flight from bright, sunny, but still somewhat brisk New York down to Louis Armstrong airport in New Orleans. Although it was still very much spring, the temperature and humidity differences were apparent the second we stepped out of the airport and this felt like another country entirely.
We absolutely loved our time in New Orleans and wanted to share our suggestions to really help you get the most out of the city and not just limit yourself to the Bourbon Street bacchanal (fun though it is). We did think about creating a separate entry just for the incredible food to be found here, but in the end decided to include our favourite places along with the other recommendations in this list:
Cocktails / Laffite’s Blacksmith Shop
The frozen daquiris pumped out en masse by the bars (both good and bad) on Bourbon Street are just the tip of the iceberg. This is a city that has taken cocktails seriously for a long time. The Sazerac, Hurricane, Ramos Gin Fizz, Grasshopper, Vieux Carre, La Louisiane and Milk Punch all have places in the city’s folklore and identity. The only decent thing therefore is to seek them out and try a decent proportion of them! Everyone will have their own favourite(s) and some of the concoctions might be on the strong side for some, but once you find the one for you, then all will seem right with the world.
Whilst there are an array of cheaper bars on Bourbon Street selling frozen cocktails in huge cups, we found these to be quite artificial and a bit sickly after a while. Far better therefore to find a decent bar and do it properly. There are a number of fantastic historic bars in New Orleans, but one that we would particularly recommend is Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop. Dating back to 1722, this is the city’s oldest bar and one of its oldest buildings. With a rich history (it was once owned by famed local pirate Jean Lafitte) this gem of a bar is far enough along Bourbon Street to be slightly removed from the more high tempo revelry. It has a good cocktail menu and pleasant places to sit both inside and outside.
The French Quarter
The most popular part of the city and likely the main base for those visiting for the first (or second) time. Small, beautiful and eminently walkable, The French Quarter is so much more than just Bourbon Street. Tennessee Williams described the area as “quainter than anything I’ve seen abroad” and the magic is still there. Taking in the architecture, small shops and balcony flower displays is a really rewarding way to pass the time, and for us, Marlon Brando and Vivien Leigh in A Streetcar Named Desire came continually to mind.
For Bourbon Street itself, walking up and down with a cocktail is not only permitted, but seemingly the done thing! Strolling around with a cocktail in hand is certainly a great way to get your bearings and see what else the street has to offer. With things getting very lively here in the evenings, expect this to be the busiest and most raucous part of the city. New Orleans also has a huge conference centre, and it can be amusing to see the ‘business causal’ groups of conference attendees mingling in amongst the more casually dressed tourists and locals.
The Bayous
Our visit wouldn’t have been complete without satisfying a long-held desire to visit ‘Cajun Country’ and one of Louisiana’s famed bayous. A central part of the region’s culture and identity, the swamp-like bayous are not only interesting and beautiful to traverse, but are also home to a huge variety of wildlife. Foremost in most people’s minds are of course, alligators (or gators if you will).
Sorting out a trip however was actually less straightforward that I had anticipated. This was not for lack of tour operators, but rather because my research gave me real pause for thought due to the well-documented prevailing practices of those that do operate the tours.
Firstly, a lot of these tours operate via relatively large boats that cause a good deal of environmental damage by frequently bumping into trees, scraping the bottom and veering off into the vegetation. Secondly, and even more depressing is the approach to the wildlife itself. It appears to be common practice to ‘bait’ and feed the alligators (and other animals such as racoons) in order to attract them. Given that the bait of choice on many boats is marshmallows (which the alligators apparently confuse for eggs), this upsets both their natural behaviour and natural diets. It also makes them less afraid of humans, something that no doubt makes them an easier target for the hunters who still kill an estimated 35,000 alligators in Louisiana each year. Unfortunately, even the word ‘eco’ somewhere in the company name doesn’t generally appear to mean much in practice.
Another of the most popular options is by the flat-bottomed airboats that are common in the bayous and also in the Florida Everglades. Whilst these purport to cause less environmental damage, there is still significant scope to damage some of the narrower channels, not least due to the speed they travel at. An even bigger issue though is the noise (and they are very loud), which causes real disturbance. It also goes without saying that they will likely scare off a lot of the wildlife that you are there to see. Again, feeding the gators is also seemingly an issue with these boats.
With this in mind, we resolved to either track down an outfit with real environmental commitments or reluctantly not go to the Bayous at all. Fortunately, we came across New Orleans Kayak Swamp Tours and booked an incredible visit to the Manchac Swamp. A minibus pickup in the centre of town took us out to the swamp, which appeared to be pristine. Being in a kayak meant that we caused no damage to the ecosystem, and apart from our own small group of about half a dozen plus guide, we didn’t see anyone else for the entirety of our trip. Whilst I was hugely excited to just be in the swamp and see the scenery, I had thought that one of the trade-offs for the ethical choice would be that seeing some gators would be unlikely. How wrong I was – throughout the trip we saw numerous gators of varying size either resting on fallen trees or swimming through the water. Being able to observe them at close quarters without disturbing them was a truly special experience.
An added bonus was that our friendly guide was also a trained ecologist who was able to give real insight into the ecosystem and the wildlife. The same company also operates a range of other interesting looking tours in the region surrounding New Orleans, and we couldn’t recommend them highly enough.
Garden District
The nineteenth century Garden District has one of the USA’s best-preserved collections of historic mansions. If the prospect of gawping at a load of large old houses doesn’t immediately excite you, then please just trust us! This is such a lovely part of the city and with each house being unique, it is a really evocative area to explore.
This is also where you need to be to visit the famous Lafayette Cemetery No.1. Nearby Magazine Street is another historic thoroughfare with some great shops, bars and restaurants that offer a different vibe to the French Quarter.
The Mississippi
For Americans, the Mississippi must just be a fact of life, albeit one that has been so critical to the country’s history, development, culture and economy. For foreigners like ourselves, it is all of this and more; an almost mythical entity that captures our imagination and informs our understanding of the soul of so much of this vast country.
Sitting on the Mississippi River and within the Mississippi Delta, New Orleans provided us with our first glimpse of both the great river itself and of the paddle steamers with which it is so associated. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time for one of the steamboat trips or dinner cruises that can be taken from the city, but it is certainly something we would like to do in the future.
Coop’s Place
Like many people, we were already broadly familiar with Cajun flavourings and dishes purporting to be Cajun or Cajun-inspired. We were therefore really excited by the chance to experience the real thing. Top of our list was Coop’s Place, a truly authentic Cajun joint with a great atmosphere, and it is difficult to do justice to how much we enjoyed this.
We opted for the Taste Plate and so were able to sample Seafood Gumbo, Cajun Fried Chicken, Shrimp Creole, Red Beans & Rice, Fried Okra and Rabbit & Sausage Jambalaya. The flavours were incredible and although Gumbo for example is seemingly cooked slightly differently by every Cajun, we didn’t find anywhere else that matched Coop’s for the rest of our time in Louisiana.
Willie Mae’s Scotch House
When a place has been named as having the best fried chicken in the world by a number of reputable media outlets, then it is worth paying attention to. When it has such a strong reputation in the Southern United States, the home of fried chicken, then it is definitely worth a visit.
Willie Mae’s is away from the tourist hotspot of The French Quarter (a 30-minute walk or 5-10 car journey) in a slightly down-at-heel residential area. It is however the real deal and quite simply brilliant. There is no need for marketing gimmicks, extensive menus or gentrified pretension here. Rather, friendly service, a neighbourhood restaurant atmosphere and truly delicious food is all that is required to provide a truly memorable experience.
PS. The fame and reputation of Willie Mae’s is such that you may also see some places in The French Quarter masquerading under similar names. Other than the original and an outpost at the city’s Pythian Market, you would have to go all the way to Los Angeles to find another.
Liuzza's
Any hunt for Louisiana cuisine would be incomplete without sampling a po’boy. Served in a distinctive local style of French bread, these sandwiches / local icons (there is even a festival dedicated to it) can be stuffed with a range of different fillings including roast beef, crawfish and catfish. My favourite however is fried shrimp, and having sampled them elsewhere, I was desperate to try one in New Orleans.
As you can imagine, there are any number of places to find po’boys and finding a consensus on where makes the best would be impossible. By any sensible estimation however, Liuzza's is a brilliant option. Beloved by locals, this felt as authentic as it gets. Crucially, it was also delicious!
Beignets
What is a beignet? Technically speaking, a beignet is a square piece of dough that is fried and covered with powdered sugar. In practical terms however, it is the single best way to start your day in New Orleans!
Even as someone who isn’t overly fond of doughnuts (sacrilege I know), these were delicious. The two places to make sure you visit are Café Beignet and Café Du Monde. Our only regret was that on our day of departure, we left too early to be able to have any more!
A Charming Hotel
If chain hotels are your thing, then that’s fine. However, the historic architecture and style of New Orleans affords the opportunity for something a bit more romantic and evocative. The French Quarter abounds with beautiful buildings and intriguing options. We opted for the French Market Inn on Decatur Street and were delighted. Built in the 1800s and located perfectly for the French Quarter, Jackson Square and the Mississippi, the spacious lobby and room were decked out in period furnishings.
Both the front of the hotel and the inner courtyard (with secluded swimming pool) were replete with the typical balconies of the French Quarter meaning that we constantly felt the spirit of the city around us. This was something that really added to our stay, and is certainly something worth considering.
The Considered Journey is a travel blog focused on travel reviews, travel tips and travel guides, all focused on travel inspiration with a view to helping you make the most of your trip and maximise your travel time.
Having travelled across Europe, Asia, South America, North America, and parts of Africa, we have a host of experiences to share with you. As our focus is on helping you make the most of your trip and maximise your travel time, we highlight the best things to eat, best things to drink, best places to go, and best things to do. In addition, we have written a range of airline reviews, hotel reviews, airport lounge reviews and credit card reviews, and also cover topics such as travelling as a couple, career break travel and sabbatical travel.
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